Paraguayan Squash Polenta-Kivevé

This comforting side dish has the texture of thick, creamy polenta. Corn is a mainstay in the Paraguayan diet and is even used in desserts. Because it has both sweet and savory ingredients, this is often served alongside meats or as a dessert. The word kivevé means “reddish” in the native Guarani language. The traditional pumpkin used in this dish is the deep-orange-colored andaí, hence the name. Butternut squash also works well, though any winter squash may be used. Any fresh white cheese may be substituted for the queso fresco, such as ricotta, cottage, or farmer’s cheese. High-calorie, high-protein recipes like this one were popular after the War of Paraguay (1864-1870), a time when food was scarce and creative cooks devised ways to enrich dishes.